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Occasionally a courgette plant will produce extremely bitter, inedible fruit with high levels of cucurbitacin, which if they were to be eaten could make a person unwell.


Although rare, it can occur when a courgette plant is cross-pollinated by pollen from a wild or ornamental bitter gourd which naturally contains high levels of cucurbitacin to deter predators. This problem is only likely to occur with ‘open pollinated’ courgette varieties, where insect pollination produces crops in an open field environment. Although all possible precautions are taken to prevent cross-pollination, the arbitrary nature of this natural process means a small possibility remains.


A few cross-pollinated seeds could grow to produce plants that share the trait of the bitter gourd parent and it is this generation of plants which may then go on to produce fruit with high levels of cucurbitacin. These plants should be discarded as they will only produce inedible fruit.


The initial fruit from the cucurbitacin free, pure bred parent is still perfectly edible even if its seeds have been cross-fertilised. This means that all squashes and courgettes can be grown together without affecting the quality of their crops. However, because it is not possible to tell if the seed within a fruit has been cross-fertilised, it is best not to save these seeds for future plants.


We would always recommend using high quality, bought seeds, as commercial courgette growers will take all possible precautions to reduce the risk to an absolute minimum.


F1 hybrid varieties are pollinated in a controlled way and therefore their seeds are not at the same risk from accidental cross-pollination, although on rare occasions higher levels of cucurbitacin can be caused by a spontaneous mutation, as a response to injury or other external factors such as severe water stress.


Although exceptionally unusual in commercially available seeds, cross-pollination with bitter wild types was a phenomenon traditionally known to smallholders and kitchen gardeners who regularly saved seeds from harvested fruit. It was common practice for the first fruit from a plant to be checked by cutting a slice and touching it with the tip of the tongue. Fruit that is high in cucurbitacin is so very bitter it is instantly recognisable. The offending plant would then be removed and discarded. If the first fruit tastes fine, then the likelihood is that all other fruit from that plant will also be good.

Few gardeners these days save seeds from courgette harvests and the practice of the a ‘tongue tip taste test’ has become less well known, however it is easy to do and still good practice when harvesting the first fruit from a new plant.

 

What to do in your garden in May...

May usually brings us warmer weather and hopefully the end of too many night frosts, which will help us keep on top of those little gardening jobs. But just in case we get a cold night keep a piece of fleece close by to protect any of those tender plants.

1. Now that May has arrived, I like to make my first sowing of Runner Beans and Dwarf French Beans. I sow the seeds into 9cm (3 1/2 in) pots of multipurpose compost and place on the bench in a heated glasshouse or on a warm windowsill. This early sowing can then be moved into a cold frame once germinated, so the plants acclimatise gradually, before being planted outside towards the end of this month.
2. Further sowings of late Peas, Radish, carrot, lettuce and beetroot can be made into drills outside. This will ensure you get a continuous supply to harvest throughout the year.
3. If you didn’t find the time to sow some Half Hardy annual summer bedding earlier in the year, but you would still like a quick colourful display? The answer is sowing some Hardy Annuals. These seeds can be sown direct into the garden soil where they are to flower. These seeds can be sown anytime this month up to the beginning of June and will reward you with a colourful summer display. Try sowing some Nasturtiums, Sunflowers, Cornflowers, Godetia or Calendulas you won’t be disappointed.
4. Some of the early spring flowering shrubs will finish producing flowers this month and will soon begin to look untidy. To be sure of flowers next spring prune these shrubs quite hard after flowering. The reason for hard pruning is to encourage new young growth, which will help produce plenty of new flowers early next spring.
5. I love adding herbs to various dishes and salads. This month is the ideal time to sow some of the hardy and quick growing herbs like Dill, Coriander, Rocket, and Parsley. At this time of year the soil is warmer, so you can sow these seeds direct into the herb or vegetable garden outside in shallow drills, or into containers on the patio ready for harvesting later in the year.
6. If you are growing Strawberry plants in containers or the ground, this month they will start to produce a lot of flower. To encourage a good fruit harvest, I suggest you feed your plants with high Potash granular feed. Carefully work the feed into the soil in-between the plants, or the tops of the containers. Plants in the ground can then have some straw mulch placed around the plants to protect the developing fruit as it grows.
7. If you are growing Lilies in borders or containers, make sure you are vigilant this month as the dreaded Lily Beetles will be active munching on the foliage of Lilies. Adult Lily beetles are easily recognisable as they are an attractive bright red colour .The best method of control I have found is to keep a close watch over your plants and pick the lily beetles off with finger and thumb as soon as they are seen. Alternatively you can spray them with a suitable insecticide like the Ultimate bug killer (Provado). Remember Lily Beetle will attack any of the Lily Family including Snakes Head Fritillary.
8. Perennials are putting on a lot of growth this month, but before they get too large, it is wise to support them. Supporting them early when they are still only about 1/3 grown, will enable the new growth to grow through the supports and hide it, as well as stop any stems being damaged. I like to use old chicken wire, twiggy sticks or one of the manufactured plant supports for this job.
9. Around the middle of this month I will be planting up my containers and baskets with bedding plants. This will make space in the greenhouse and save a job later. I will then stand these pots and baskets outside on nice days and during mild evenings. If the weather turns bad they are put back in the greenhouse, shed or garage over night. When planting containers make sure you use good compost and add some slow release fertiliser, as these plants will be in this same container for several months. The slow release fertiliser will feed your containers and baskets for 6 months; so reducing the amount of liquid feeding you will need to do.
10. Towards the end of the month I will start to plant out some of my summer bedding plants into their final positions. This is only done once the plants have been hardened them off properly for a few weeks in a cold frame so they are acclimatised to outdoor conditions before planting

Cultural tips for your growing asparagus....From preparation to planting and general tips.

The lighter evenings have arrived and as they get longer as the month progresses, this will give us all more time to pamper our flower and vegetable gardens. Happy Gardening!

1. Hopefully last autumn you left the old flower heads on your Hydrangeas. This was done to protect the young growth and buds during the cold frosty winter months. Towards the end of this month it is the best time to cut those old flower heads off, and prune the plants into shape. I like to prune my Hydrangea down to 3-4 buds, as this helps to keep the plants at a manageable size and still rewards me every year with plenty of new flowers. Don’t be tempted to prune any lower than this otherwise you will get bushy plants but with a few or no flowers.
2. If gardening on a budget, or if time is precious, but you still want a colourful display around your home, then there is nothing easier to grow than hardy Annuals. These can be sown direct into the garden any time from this month up to the first week of June, as soon as the soil is dry and warm enough. These are easy to grow and will reward you with a glorious display this summer from very little time and effort as well as leave a few pounds in your pocket.
3. If you are planning to have a bumper harvest of Cucumbers or Courgettes this year, then towards the end of the month is an ideal time to sow some under glass in a heated propagator at 21C (70F). I like to sow seeds into individual 9cm (3 1/2in) pots filled with multipurpose compost. All these vegetables are of the same family so when you sow them, always push the seeds in on their edge, rather than flat. This is so the water runs away from the sides of the seeds. This is important because if the seeds are sown flat, there is always a danger the seeds may get too wet and rot rather than germinate. Both these vegetables can be grown very well in containers on a sunny patio.
4. Towards the middle of this month, I will be sowing the last of my summer bedding in the propagator. This month is the time to sow African and French Marigolds, Cosmos, Tagetes and Zinnias. These will quickly germinate and will be ready for pricking out in about 7-10 days time. If you haven’t got a propagator sow the seeds on a warm windowsill. Although sown later than a lot of summer bedding, they will still be ready for planting out at the end of May along with your summer bedding plants.
5. By the end of this month hopefully the majority of the hard frosts will have past, so it will be time to prune back the old growth of Penstemons and Hardy Fuchsias. These can be pruned back quite hard, down to about 15cm (6in) from the ground. This will encourage the new young shoots at the base of the plants to grow and replace the old woody growth you are cutting away.
6. As the weather improves and the soil dries out and gets warmer you can really get started on the Vegetable plot. This month you can make sowings of some of the smaller vegetable seeds like Carrots, Parsnips, Beetroot, Radish and Spring onions. You can also make further sowings of Peas & Broad Beans, plus this month I will be planting my early and Second Early Potatoes.
7. This month Perennials really put on a spurt of growth, so before they get too large, put some Blood, Fish & Bone fertiliser around the plants and work this into the soil. This will give the plants a boost, rewarding you with a bigger and better display this summer. As the plants grow add some twiggy sticks or the wire frames you can buy to support the plants as they grow. Putting these supports in early will allow the plants to grow through them, allowing there leaves to disguise them, still giving your borders that natural look.
8. Over the winter if your lawns have been sitting damp and in the shade, or if your soil is not very well drained, then you may now have some patches of moss spoiling its appearance. This moss can be raked out (Scarified). You can either do this with a spring tined moss rake and a bit of elbow grease or use an electric Scarifier. Once scarified, mow the lawn again to tidy it up and leave for 1-2 weeks to recover, before applying a summer lawn feed.
9. If you are planning to grow a giant Sunflower, for competition or fun with the Children or grandchildren, then towards the middle of this month is a good time start. Sow the seeds into individual pots of multipurpose compost in the greenhouse or on a warm windowsill. If you are trying to grow the tallest plant or biggest flower head there is no better variety than Giant Single.
10. As Daffodils finish flowering it is wise to deadhead them, removing any old flowers. This is simply done by pinching off the old flowers, preventing them from turning into seedpods. This will encourage the plants to gradually die down and return some of the goodness back into the bulbs. Do not cut down the foliage until it has yellowed, and is at least 6-8 weeks after they have finished flowering. Cutting down too soon will result in blind bulbs (no flowers) next year. It is also wise at this time of year to feed your bulbs with a high potash feed (like tomato food); this will also encourage stronger better flowers next spring.

What to do in your garden in March!

What to do in your garden in January...
 

Plug Plants for July delivery will be despatched from 1st July.

August is usually a busy month bringing in the harvest. But there are still plants and crops to get going in readiness for next years display.

1. This month I like to keep a check over any soft succulent leaves on my bedding plants for any signs of Caterpillar damage. Caterpillars can eat the leaves of Nasturtiums and Geraniums to shreds in about two days. Caterpillars love to feed on these leaves and can quickly spoil your plants. If seen in the early stages they can be picked off, and any eggs rubbed off the leaves. If however you get a bad attack, you may need to spray with a suitable insecticide.
2. If you have an old strawberry bed that needs regenerating or you want to increase the size of your strawberry bed next year, this is best done during early August. Your old established plants should be producing plenty of runners; these can be pegged down with a wire hoop into pots or trays. These will quickly root and then once rooted; they can be cut away from the mother plants ready for planting your new strawberry bed this autumn. Alternatively you can order new plants from Mail order companies to plant up a new area.
3. August is the ideal time to plant Colchicums (misleadingly called the autumn crocus). The attractive flowers of these bulbs appear before its foliage. I always think these look best if planted in grass areas. These bulbs will be available for sale from most good garden centres.
4. This month is the time to lift and store early and second early potatoes for future use. I always take my time to carefully fork out the tubers and dry them in the sun for about 1 hour, and then I put them into potato sacks. You can leave main crop potatoes for harvesting early next month. If you have cut the foliage down from your potatoes because they were affected by blight last month, do not lift the tubers for at least three weeks after cutting the foliage down. Otherwise the blight fungal spores could still affect the tubers you store as they are lifted through the soil and ruin your crop.
5. All gardeners like to plan ahead, so if you want to grow Hyacinths for Christmas, the ‘Prepared Hyacinth’ bulbs will be on sale in Garden Centres this month. These should be purchased and potted up into containers of bulb fibre as soon as possible. Once potted up place in a cool dark place outside (Covered up with peat against a north-facing wall is ideal). Start inspecting the pots for developing shoots in 6-8 weeks time. When the growth is 2.5cm (1in) high, containers can be moved indoors into cool conditions.
6. Often at this time of year many of my early flowering annuals and perennial plants start to look tied or have already finished flowering. I like to cut these back hard or sometimes remove them totally from the borders during the month. Then to ensure there is still colour in the garden, I stand some of my flowering patio containers in their place to fill the gaps and prolong my colourful display.
7. Sweet corn will be ready to harvest later this month. An easy way to check if it is ready to eat is when the Silks (tassels) turn brown and the cobs look swollen. Then pull back a little of the sheath around the cob, push your fingernail into one of the kernels, and if a milky juice comes out they are in perfect condition for eating.
8. If you have some very good baskets of Trailing Geraniums or Pots of Zonal Geraniums, why not take your own cuttings. Geranium cuttings taken now root very easily. Simply trim off shoots about 2.5 cm (2in) long, and cut just below a pair of leaves. Then remove the bottom pair of leaves and any flower buds. This cutting is now ready, I then like to dip the cut end into Hormone Rooting Powder, this is now ready for inserting into pots or trays filled with moist Multipurpose Compost. Cuttings taken at this time of year root very easily if placed on the bench in a greenhouse or even stood outside in a semi shaded part of the garden (Unlike other cuttings, Geranium cuttings Do Not need covering with polythene to aid rooting). After initial watering, keep trays of compost on the dry side whilst rooting, this will help prevent stem rot (Blackleg) occurring. Plants should be rooted in 14-21 days.
9. As space comes available from early harvested crops and where Potatoes were, make sure you fill it up again, as now is a good time to sow some over wintering Japanese Onions. Sown now outside in drills these will quickly germinate and will be ready for thinning early next year as spring onions then I leave the rest to mature as full sized onions for use from June onwards. I find these a useful crop to grow as; you will have onions ready to use just as your stored onions have finished. I think one of the best varieties to grow is Onion Hi Keeper F1 Hybrid.
10. For a continuous supply of salad leaves going into the autumn, I will be making another sowing of Mixed salad leaves into pots on the patio this month. These will quickly germinate and produce fresh mixed leaves ready to pick as baby leaves in around 28-30 days. The advantage of sowing these leaves in pots at this time of year is that they can always be moved to a cool glasshouse or sheltered part of the garden if the weather turns bad.

Gardening Tips for October

November is here and autumn has well and truly arrived but there is no time to sit back and relax as there are still plenty of crops to plant and tidying up jobs to be done in preparation for next years displays.

1. One job that can be done, whatever the weather is planting Amaryllis bulbs early this month and you will be able to enjoy them indoors from Christmas, going into January. I like to simply plant a single bulb, in a 13-15cm (5-6in) pot, so it is sitting on the high side, so only the bottom 1/3 of the bulb is covered with compost. Give the compost a little water, stand it on a warm windowsill and watch it grow.
2. Before we get any very cold and frosty weather, it is important to protect pot grown Fig plants. These should be moved into a cold glasshouse or under a carport, as this will help protect any small embryo figs from frost damage. As these small figs will produce your fig crop next year.
3. Seed and plant catalogues are falling through the letterbox each week at the moment. Take advantage of the long winter evenings and browse through the pages and plan your display for the year ahead. Early ordering is always advisable to guarantee you get the seeds and plants you require.
4. Any containers you have plants growing in for the winter months are best raised slightly off the ground from now through to the spring. By standing your pots on some stones, bricks or laths of wood will help to keep the drainage hole off the ground and allow free drainage, and help prevent your containers becoming waterlogged during very wet spells of weather.
5. This month is the ideal time for planting Roses. When planting always make sure the hole is large enough, to spread the roots out sufficiently and then add some home made compost to the planting hole and a dusting of Bone meal before planting, Always plant roses at the correct depth, so the soil level is 8cm (3in) above the knuckle of the plant (where the stems join the root of the plant), then gently backfill with soil and lightly tread in to firm, then water them in well after planting.
6. November is the best month to plant Tulip bulbs. These should be planted at least twice the bulb depth. Plant in an open sunny site in borders or containers. There is also still plenty of time to plant Daffodils and Crocus as well if not already done. Many garden centres will have these on offer at the moment so you can fill your garden and containers with some real bargains.
7. If like me you enjoy growing fresh vegetables, well this month is the perfect time to sow some Broad beans and Peas outside on the vegetable plot, provided the soil is not waterlogged. When Sowing Broad beans at this time of year, you will need a hardy variety like Aquadulce Claudia, and a hardy variety of Peas like Meteor. Both Peas and Beans should be sown in drills, on the vegetable plot, and are best sown under cloches for early winter protection. Sowing these this month will give you an early harvest next spring.
8. Many of the marginal plants growing beside ponds are looking past there best this month. These can be cut down to just above soil or water level. This will give the plants a rest for the winter, as well as tidy up the look of your pond. At the same time you can remove any leaves that may have fallen into the water, improving the water quality.
9. Soft fruit bushes at this time of year will benefit from having a thick mulch of well-rotted farmyard manure or old compost put around the base of each plant. This will help keep the ground free from weeds as well as add nutrients to the soil, and increase your crop next year.
10. One very quick but very important job at this time of year is to check Potatoes, Carrots and Beetroot that are stored for winter use. Make sure you remove any tubers or roots that are showing any signs of decay. This will stop any fungal disease spreading through the whole of your stored crop, and ruining your hard-earned harvest.